As I mentioned in my previous post, I wanted to add a little something special to this little master bathroom water closet by mimicking the shiplap I added to my master bedroom. My first step was to remove my baseboards and then slap up a quick coat of white paint on all my walls, just in case you could see between any of the gaps between my shiplap boards. At this point it looked pretty horrifying.
Like I did in my master bedroom, I started paneling from the top and used pennies as spacers. I cut my boards in here to be the same height as in my master bedroom, 6.75 inches. I started on the two longer sides thinking that then I could put the boards on the smaller back wall and make sure it lined up on both sides. This was stupid. In hindsight I should have started with the wall that was most visible head on: that back wall. It is most important that that wall be straight, as its what you will see most. Long story short, I ended up having to take off most of the back wall and re-straightening it.
I used the same technique I used in my master to cut the shiplap around the windows and outlets. Placed a bunch of nails around my cut area and then used my multi-tool to cut out the shiplap that overlapped. It didn’t have to be perfect because I would add corner trim to the windows later and the outlets would be covered by the switch plate.
I kept paneling, working my way down all of the walls. A LOT of back and forth to my miter saw in the garage.
Eventually I got down to the light switch. I covered this in my master bedroom post, but I’ll go over it again quickly here. Because the shiplap is about a quarter of an inch thick, the light switches were no longer flush with the switch plate. To remedy this, I purchased some spacers made just for this purpose, and added them to the back of the screws that hold the switches to the wall. All of this was done after I had turned off the power, of course.
Now the light switches will sit nice and flush with the switch plate again.
I liked my toilet paper holder placement so I marked where the existing holes lined up in the shiplap piece above, and also noted exactly how far down the top hole was. This way I could hit the same holes when I reinstalled my paper holder later.
Behind my toilet I was lucky that the pipe going from the wall to the toilet ended up being between two of my shiplap boards. This meant that I didn’t have to undo any plumbing. However, I did have to notch out a little piece to fit over the pipe. I marked where it needed to be notched out on my board, and then just used a hammer and flathead screwdriver to notch it out since it was such a small piece. Easy! If my pipe had ended up in the middle of a board, I just would have had to use a spade bit or hole saw bit to cut my hole in the middle of the shiplap, and then undone the connection to the toilet to place the board over the pipe.
Finally, the room was all shiplapped and the windows were trimmed out. You can see that my corners where the shiplap meets up are a little rough. I wasn’t aiming for perfect because I knew I would use some moulding to hide the seams at the end. If it was a more prominent room in the house I might have tried to be more accurate in my cuts so I could have just caulked the corners butttt…this is a poop closet.
I spackled all of my nail holes and then sanded them smooth. I also added back in my baseboards and caulked around those, the ceiling, the door and the window.
I applied a “primer” coat of leftover ceiling paint, and then nailed in my corner moulding, which is actually called cove moulding.
I then applied two coats of Simply White by Benjamin Moore, mixed in Sherwin Williams Ovation paint at Lowes. You may remember this is the same paint color I used in my master bedroom. I thought it helped to kind of tie everything together.
The only thing that was left was to style. Reveal post will be up next week!